日本新晋厨师Yoshinaga Jinbo在中环开设了一家特色餐厅，对意大利菜式进行了独特诠释。
自6月开业以来，我便计划探访，终于在一星期三与一位美食界消息人士同行得以成行。他同样在日本东京有一间备受赞誉的餐厅。厨房内火力十足——他的副厨师来自我们上周评论过的米其林星级绿餐馆。
这家以“Citrino”命名（意为黄水晶），以其精美的意大利菜肴和来自日本、意大利及本地的新鲜食材自豪，但消费不菲。两位顾客的四道菜套餐午餐从每位880港元起跳，加上额外选择与咖啡后，账单总额高达2594港元，这接近三颗米其林星餐厅的价格。
就餐体验：装修采用1950年代复古意大利风格，墙上悬挂着Yayoi Kusama标志性点阵南瓜画作，则增添了日本的独特风情。我们坐在靠窗的两人小桌旁。
邻座情况：午间光临时，仅我一人一客，但小时内顾客逐渐增多。多数人都穿着商务装束，是中环常见的上班族。是否适合举行会议：空间虽小且紧致，餐桌之间仍有足够的私密交谈空间。一旦满员，声音会变得较为嘈杂，故若偏好宁静，建议早到。餐厅另提供能容纳12人的私人包厢。
我再点的菜肴包括了海胆和Kristal茨尔鱼子酱搭配的凉式意面Pasta alla checca——这是我的最爱；这道冷盘将新鲜番茄的香甜与海鲜风味巧妙融合，冰凉的面条质地与海胆的顺滑相得益彰。柠檬奶糕搭配薄荷三重奏则为口腔提供了清新的余味之后享用过重的伊比利亚猪肉后。
需知事项：餐厅特色菜肴包括时令有机蔬菜烟熏bagna cauda、西西里红虾意面、藏有番红花泡沫的意式烩饭以及野生多佛石首鱼在杏仁黄油中的烹饪，只以单品形式提供。Citrino位于18 On Lan Street二楼，同楼层还有几间米其林星级餐厅如Konishi Zest和Arcane。这家餐厅每周一休息，平日从中午12点开放至晚上10点。
新闻来源：www.bloomberg.com
原文地址：Citrino in Hong Kong Has Great Pasta But It’s Pricey: Review
新闻日期：2024-09-28
原文摘要：
This review was originally published on Sept. 26 as part of the newsletter.Up-and-coming Japanese chef Yoshinaga Jinbo recently opened a new restaurant in Central, offering quite an interesting spin to Italian cuisine.I’d been meaning to try , which is partly owned by a UBS banker, since it opened in June, and finally got around to it on a recent Wednesday with a foodie source.The chef, who also runs in Tokyo, has plenty of culinary firepower in the kitchen — his sous chef is from , the Michelin-starred green restaurant that we reviewed last week. Citrino, Italian for the yellow citrine gemstone, prides itself for offering beautifully presented Italian dishes with fresh ingredients from Japan, Italy and locally.But it’s not cheap. Our bill came to HK$2,594 for the two of us for the four-course set lunch, which starts at HK$880 a head, but we couldn’t resist the add-ons and coffee. That’s comparable to what one would pay at three-Michelin-starred !The vibe: The earth-toned motif is 1950s retro Italian, but sculpted renderings of Yayoi Kusama's famed polka-dotted pumpkins on the wall provide a distinct Japanese touch. We were seated at a small table for two next to the window.Who’s next to you: When we arrived just around noon, we were the only customers, but it got more lively within the hour. Patrons were generally dressed in business attire — the usual Central business crowd. Can you conduct a meeting here? Though the space is intimate, there's still enough room between tables for private conversations. It did get a bit loud when all the tables were full, so I'd recommend going early if you prefer tranquility. They also offer a private room that fits 12 people.What we’d order again: The pasta alla checca with sea urchin and kristal caviar (extra HK$198) was my favorite. It's a cold dish that blends fragrant, juicy tomatoes with seafood flavors. The chilled texture of the pasta was paired perfectly with the silkiness of the uni.The lemon cannoli with mints trio gelato, which my source highly recommended, didn’t disappoint. The dessert provided a welcome refreshment for the palate after heavy Iberico pork.Need to know: Some of the restaurant’s signature dishes, including the seasonal organic vegetable smoke bagna cauda, Sicilian red prawns linguine, saffron foam risotto, and the wild-caught dover sole in hazelnut butter, were only available a la carte.Citrino is located on the second floor of 18 On Lan Street in a building that's home to a few Michelin-starred places such as Zest by Konishi and Arcane. It is closed on Mondays and open from noon to 10 p.m. the rest of the week.
