早上好！前些日子我在隔壁城镇一家特色杂货店买到了两份价格不菲、却令人失望的三明治：一个意大利风味，白面包焦香包做成，冷藏且乏味；另一个是辣炸鸡排，夹在湿漉漉的pretzel面包里，搭配泡菜。那份味道平庸如同冷浴水，彻底让人败兴。
这些经历提醒我们，生活的美味并非总是连绵不断。失败与挑战也常在其中。在这种时刻，最明智的做法就是确保下一次用餐能够带来满满的快乐和满足感。
推荐尝试一碗炸酱面 – 这是一道经典的北京面条菜肴，使用炒豆酱制成，味道浓郁且鲜香可口，甜咸适中。不论您是否刚刚经历了不愉快的饮食体验，这道菜都一定能带给您惊喜。它是为那些在飞机餐或会议室聚餐后疲惫时刻准备的一碗暖心美食，特别是周五晚上的首选。
以下菜肴同样值得一试：纽约金色餐厅的金枪鱼三明治；多年前我在特里波顿海滩学习制作的传统芥末炸鸡排；以及朱莉娅·莫斯金在缅因州波特兰事件中找到的鱼汤。这个周末，我计划周六晚上做一份 Bo ssam，并搭配一道双苹果派作为甜点结束晚餐。周日早上，我想准备奶油蛋饼，旁边加上醒神的早餐沙拉以助于午间的懒散休憩。
至于周日晚餐？随着秋天的到来，是时候享用一盘意大利面搭配周日酱汁了。随后可以品尝一份Lucali沙拉，坐在染红的餐具旁享受美食。
如若这些选择都不吸引你，New York Times Cooking 上还有成千上万的食谱等着你去发掘。当然，你需要订阅以查看它们的内容。而我们的工作则依靠你的支持，请考虑在未订阅时加入我们吧。
若有技术问题需要帮助，可发送邮件至cookingcare@nytimes.com寻求援助；如需反馈或表示满意，也可直接写信至foodeditor@nytimes.com给我。
接下来分享一点不同的内容：Drew Magary 在Outside上讲述的关于黄石国家公园内游客破坏行为的文章。
好友Ned推荐了澳大利亚1960年代的一篇关于商业捕鱼的奇妙故事《Gone Fishin’》。该故事以一句警言开始：“你看，这个angler。他早上起床时就搅乱了一整个家庭，他的准备充分而宏大——心中充满希望地启程。然而当一天快要结束时，当他归来、身上酒气扑鼻之时，真相并不在他的言语中。”
本周末，Dwight Garner 在《纽约时报书评》栏目中对Sally Rooney的最新小说《Intermezzo》给出了高度赞扬。（而David Marchese则在《纽约时报杂志》栏目采访了作者。）
最后，请留意Bon Iver最新的歌曲《Speyside》，这首歌曲回归了老式Bon Iver风格，情绪高昂且带有一丝忧郁。“现在，一切都不再重要，整个世界仿佛覆盖着煤灰。”边享受美味的菜肴时听这首歌吧，下周我们再见！
——以上文字旨在捕捉原文精髓，保持其精神实质与核心信息。
新闻来源：www.nytimes.com
原文地址：Zha Jiang Mian, Porky and Rich, Salty-Sweet and Satisfying
新闻日期：2024-09-27
原文摘要：
Good morning. I’m still smarting over the two really expensive sandwiches I bought the other day at a gourmet shop in the next town over: one of them an ostensibly Italian number on white-bread focaccia, fridge-cold and tasteless; the other a “spicy” fried chicken cutlet on soggy pretzel bread with kimchi. That one was bathwater-warm and tasteless. Both were a reminder that the eating life isn’t always a run of wins. There are cruel defeats along the way, and the best thing to do when you experience them is to make absolutely sure that the meal that follows the loss is delicious. To wit, try zha jiang mian, a classic Beijing-style dish of noodles with fried bean sauce that is porky and rich, salty-sweet and satisfying. You don’t need to have had a terrible meal in the hours before making it to experience its excellence, but it is a revelation if you have. It’s the sort of meal you ought to make after a day of airline snacks or conference-room repasts, and definitely on Friday nights. It’s perfect weekend fare even if you’ve been lucky enough to eat well all week. When it comes to these two days that some of us have off from work, we should be looking for five-star delectable every time. View Recipe → Other recipes in that vein: the tuna melt from Golden Diner in New York City; the buttermilk fried chicken I learned to make years ago in Rehoboth Beach, Del.; and the fish chowder that Julia Moskin picked up in the kitchen of Eventide, in Portland, Maine. I’d like to make a bo ssam on Saturday night, with a double apple pie to follow. A buttery breakfast casserole on Sunday morning? Yes, please, with a breakfast salad alongside it to encourage napping through the midday hours. And for dinner on Sunday? Autumn has fallen. It’s time again for Sunday sauce over pasta and a Lucali salad to eat on the red-stained plates afterward. If none of that appeals, there are thousands and thousands more recipes to consider cooking this weekend waiting for you on New York Times Cooking. You need a subscription to read them, of course. Subscriptions support our work. Please, if you haven’t already, would you consider subscribing today? Thank you. Should you find yourself in a jam with our technology, do reach out for help: cookingcare@nytimes.com. Someone will get back to you. If you’d like to lodge a complaint or register your satisfaction, you can also write to me: foodeditor@nytimes.com. I can’t respond to every letter. But I read each one I get. Now, it’s a considerable distance from anything to do with roast beef or scuffins, but here’s Drew Magary in Outside, on tourists ravaging Yellowstone National Park. My pal Ned turned me on to a fantastic tale of commercial fishing in Australia in the 1960s: Nino Culotta’s “Gone Fishin’.” (Culotta is the pseudonym of the writer John O’Grady, who died in 1981.) It begins with an epigram: “Lo the angler. He riseth early in the morning and upsetteth the whole household. Mighty are his preparations. He goeth forth with a great hope in his heart — and when the day is far spent he returneth, smelling of strong drink, and the truth is not in him.” Dwight Garner entered the Sally Rooney discourse this week in The New York Times Book Review, with a rave for her new novel, “Intermezzo.” (David Marchese, for his part, interviewed the author for The New York Times Magazine.) Finally, there’s a new Bon Iver track out, “Speyside,” that is old-school Bon Iver, plucky and sad. “Nothing’s really something, now the whole thing’s soot.” Listen to that while you’re making something delicious, and I’ll see you on Sunday.
